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Re: Dyeing a Resin Doll

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:57 pm
by OkamiKodomo
You can sand the doll first, but it's not necessary. You do want to give your doll a thorough scrubbing with a magic eraser though, especially BBB/RS dolls, to make sure you remove all the mold release residue. So long as you don't seal the doll first, the dye will take directly to the resin, and shouldn't rub or fade much at all, except inside the joints, where there is friction. I've dyed 3 dolls using RIT dye, and fantasy parts for two more, and have never had any problems with chipping or fading. However, once dyed, you won't be able to scrub your doll to remove stains without removing the dye. I have a project thread here for a full dye and paint job. I've got some basics on the process I followed in the first post, if you're curious.

Re: Dyeing a Resin Doll

PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:48 pm
by Trethowan
Thread! Come forth! AAHAAHAA... IT LIVES!!! Go forth zombie thread and teach us the ways of dollieh dyeing!

*ahem*

Anyway. Tomorrow I'm headed to the store for some RIT dye, magic erasers, and a few rods and sticks for drying doll pieces.

With a dye job from BBB-NS to black, do you think I should seal the dyed doll in Polycryllic super-duper-sturdy matte sealant THEN MSC over the top of that? Or will a simple MSC do?

And regarding the heat, should I bring the dye bath to a boil then have it simmer during the dip dye process? I wasn't 100% clear on the link referenced and want to make sure I don't have a Derp Attack and kill my dollieh bits.

Re: Dyeing a Resin Doll

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 5:52 pm
by OkamiKodomo
Be careful with the new RIT dyes. I, and a few friends, have discovered the hard way, that Rit changed their formula and it doesn't take as well to the resin anymore. Some colors will even give you funky results. I've sealed tanned dolls with simple MSC and it was fine, except on the insides of the joints, but if you want to go the extra mile, go for the Polycrylic and then MSC over the top of it. If you use the Polycrylic spray, stand very far back and give a nice thick spray or you'll end up with a spotty effect that is not particularly pretty if you aren't going for lizard scales. I soaked all of Seona's parts for over four minutes in a good steady simmer, and no harm done, but I've never tried an actual boil, so I can't say if that would be safe or not.

Re: Dyeing a Resin Doll

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 5:52 pm
by OkamiKodomo
Also... rrraaaawr zombiethread!

Re: Dyeing a Resin Doll

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:59 pm
by Trethowan
Thanks for the reply. <3 That sucks about the dye re-formulation. I'd do a test but I'm not sure what I'd test it ON. I guess I could test on an ankle joint. I'm dying a Miro body and a RS head.

http://www.ritdye.com/store/colors/dark-brown

http://www.ritdye.com/store/colors/tan

I bought the dark brown and tan, and thought I'd test each on some paper to see if I needed to mix them. I think the dark brown should be perfect for an Afro-American skin tone. I guess I could just sell the NS doll and re-buy it in brown/tan, I think Miro is making them now. I'd started this project before they added new skin tones.