Paper Clay VS Stone Clay?? (Polymer?)

[IssaRissa]

Hey, y'all. I'm verrrrry new to sculpting and not very confident yet, so I've got a question.

I just made a BJD out of DAS paperclay. I really liked working with it, I felt it was very malleable and hardened really well, but I hear a lot of people work with LaDoll stone clay.

I'd really like hear the pros and cons of paper clay and stone clay for sculpting. (Specifically relating to BJD sculpting would be great.)

Any thoughts or feedback from people with experience with both types (or either) would be great. I'd also like to hear about polymer, if anyone has experience there.

[DollyKim]

LaDoll is a smoother, stronger, "better" version of DAS. I use DAS to bulk out and for waste sculpting but I stick to LaDoll and lighter Premier for the actual dolls.

As for polymer look for posts going forward from here with Pete http://dolfielittles.typepad.com/blog/2 ... -pete.html then Sid. I've stuck with 1/6 scale for my Poylmer dolls because I'm still learning. Feel free to poke around the blog for general doll making and insanity.

[OkamiKodomo]

I'm also curious about how durable LaDoll and DAS are.

[DollyKim]

LaDoll and Premiere can take knocks. It took some effort to smash a doll a good 1/4" with a hammer. Not that you should smack things with it. All my pieces survived moving and being kicked around, they did melt when submerged in water.

[OkamiKodomo]

Oh darn so that means tossing them down a flight of stairs is a no-no? XD

That information is encouraging. I may have to try it.

Edit: For clarification: attempt sculpting with the clays. NOT throwing the pieces down stairs.

[IssaRissa]

LaDoll and Premiere can take knocks. It took some effort to smash a doll a good 1/4" with a hammer. Not that you should smack things with it. All my pieces survived moving and being kicked around, they did melt when submerged in water.

I was hoping that would be the case. The doll I scuplted entirely out of DAS is holding up nicely, but it's her hands that are the problem... The big pieces have no trouble, but her fingers are a real problem. They are ultra fragile and were incredibly difficult to sculpt AND they cracked off several times before painting. I don't think DAS is a very good long term prospect at all.

How is LaDoll for the fragile pieces, like fingers?

[IssaRissa]

LaDoll is a smoother, stronger, "better" version of DAS. I use DAS to bulk out and for waste sculpting but I stick to LaDoll and lighter Premier for the actual dolls.

What do you mean by waste sculpting? Just like, practice sculpting?

[DollyKim]

LaDoll is better for fingers and it helps to have wire bases in them no matter what you use.

By waste sculpting I mean practice and parts that will be carved away, I know DAS is reasonably priced and how it handles. For example the Garak doll in my blog was bulked out with DAS to build up his innards and his skin was made with Apoxie Sculpt. Because the Apoxie is water proof I soaked the pieces and carved away the DAS guts leaving him hollow. Paper based clays can be baked in craft ovens so they work for polymer clay guts too.

[IssaRissa]

LaDoll is better for fingers and it helps to have wire bases in them no matter what you use.

By waste sculpting I mean practice and parts that will be carved away, I know DAS is reasonably priced and how it handles. For example the Garak doll in my blog was bulked out with DAS to build up his innards and his skin was made with Apoxie Sculpt. Because the Apoxie is water proof I soaked the pieces and carved away the DAS guts leaving him hollow. Paper based clays can be baked in craft ovens so they work for polymer clay guts too.

Very interesting.... so you made the core with paper clay, then covered it to make the real doll with apoxie... and soaking it softens the DAS so it can be scraped out... I truly have a lot to learn! Now you have me wondering about apoxie... Since it seems that is what you use, I'd assume you prefer it.

Can you tell me a bit about apoxie VS LaDoll??

[DollyKim]

Aves Apoxie Sculpt is a two part compound, combine equal parts, that sets hard within a few hours. It holds fine detail very well and you can carve, sand, paint, drill, and all sorts of stuff when it's dry. A similar product is called Milliput. It's the grey stuff I made Garak out of but you can get other colors. The biggest thing is you need to be able to work within the time to get your results. You can build layers but it doesn't behave or blend like an air dry clay does. It can get heavy as well so it might not be the best choice for big dolls. It's great for repairs and static pose figures.

Check hobby stores, Hobby Lobby or places with model cars and railroad supplies or taxidermy shops, and get a small amount to play with. You'll want metal tools, I have one of those double ended dental tools, and water near by to dip the tools and your hands in.

For general ball joint doll making you'll still be happier with La Doll and/or Premiere (a lighter fluffier version). Start here http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u270 ... m/bjd1.jpg and work through previous images for a crash course in the a method for making ball joints with air dry. If you want better I can suggest several books any of which has more detailed how-to pictures.