Review: Swagger Coat #105, Hello Dolly Boutique patterns (c)2006 as sized for the 22" American Model doll
I've put a Very Long and Verbose review of this pattern with lots of pictures on my blog
http://daretodolly.blogspot.com/2012/08/review-swagger-coat.htmlHere's the short form:
Yes, there are some issues with this pattern but the coat is cute!
A not quite so short form:
This pattern is based on a full-sized vintage pattern from the 1930s. There are sleeve style, hem length, and collar variations as well as a detachable hood. The coat and hood are lined.
This pattern has been hand-drafted down from the vintage original for a 22" doll. This pattern is also available for other size dolls. Bullet-point instructions are provided, with some very small reproductions of instructional line drawings from the original pattern.
The facings for the neck don't come out quite right, but can be easily trimmed up.
No grainlines on the pattern pieces, no center front mark, and some notches don't quite line up.
The neck comes out a bit large for the original style (which was closefitting). It looks even larger on my pencil-necked Regina (Resinsoul Dai).
The hood is seriously obscure and the scanty bulletpoint instructions provided don't match either the hood pattern pieces or the original vintage drawings provided.
This is what I came up with (creepy hand-head photos)
The pattern pieces provided are a left and right hood, each to be cut out twice. I believe they should each be cut out only once. There are matching notches on the hood pieces, creating an asymmetric hood shape (however, the double and single notches on one side seem to be reversed. It does not matter, since the hood is equally asymmetric either way).
There are several illustrations of the hood included on the pattern instruction sheet. One drawing as worn, where one can see the criss-cross drape at the front mentioned in the instructions, one of the hood hanging down the back of the coat (on the pattern cover page), one of what is apparently the seam below the peak of the hood being stitched (not present in the written instructions) and one of assembling the hood which looks suspiciously like a Möbius strip.
I have seen other 1930s garments with a similar twisted "right to wrong side" construction at the neck, and in this case, the twisted section of the hood, where both the outside and lining fabric are visible, lies below the wearer's chin.
From two of the illustrations, it appears that the hood was intended to button in place on the coat. It may be more practical to use snaps on this scale garment, as the written directions indicate.
One side or both of the hood must be detached in order to remove the coat. This is somewhat awkward, but the hood adds quite a bit to the overall style of the garment.
The "hanging down the back" illustration looks like the hood pieces may have been cut on the bias, or the fabric used in the illustration was a fine twill or other inherently easily draped fabric.
There are revised hood instructions in my blog.
Ta Da!