Dollieh Sanctuary

So, this was my first time doing a princess seam dress and overall it wasn't too bad though it took a bit to adjust properly, but one thing I didn't run into until I was done was this bulging at the under arms All my sewing books are curiously silent as to how to fix the bulge and this isn't the first time I've run into it. I mean, a dart would do it but the whole point of a princess seam dress is not needing darts. Help?

It's a little hard to tell what you are referring to, do you mean right at her waist? Or in the armhole itself? If the armhole, it is in the drafting. If the waist, it is a slight variation in the seam allowance. Can you take another picture with a pin where you would dart it?

Also, if you could show the pattern you are working with, I might be able to help.

But based only the picture there, I'd say you need to rework the armhole on your pattern.

Hi Zirc - I'll try and get a better picture. The waist is fine (it's how I seated her there that makes it look bulgy) the problem is the armhole front half.

She_Flame - I will get a better picture and scan the pattern piece in tonight! Since I've got no actual training in sewing I'm not surprised that I probably drafted something wrong LOL.

Thanks to both of you for helping!

How big are her boobs? It could be a big cup size small rib cage thing. When I draft for big boobs I put a dart in the front of the arm hole.

As others have said, it's very difficult to tell from the picture. Just a thought; I have no idea if this will work. As the front armhole looks quite large, you could try raising the shoulder a little, just on the front side panel. Don't pull it up too much, or it will throw the bust line out. If you have another bodice pattern that fits her well, compare the armhole shape, size, height, etc. I wish I could be more help, but it's difficult from the picture, and I've not sewn for this body.