by EAB » Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:48 am
Thank you so much. I am absolutely crazy about this doll, and I'm glad you like her.
The Fortuny dress isn't exactly hard to make, but it takes a while, even if you use a machine for the pleating.
Here's how to do it, if you want to make one and have several days to devote to it.
I made mine from habutai silk (china silk) because it is so fine. I had to buy a #9 machine needle to pleat it, but an 11 would do on a heavier fabric.
Measure the doll from shoulder to floor and add 1/2-1" for top and bottom hems. Now measure her around her widest part, loosely, and multiply that figure by three. That will give you the width of fabric for pleating. Add 1-2" for side hems. Cut out this long rectangular piece of fabric and cut it in two, lengthwise. This makes the front and back of the dress. Turn under a very narrow hem on all four sides of each piece and stitch (I did mine by hand). Turn under again and stitch on all four sides, but leave the ends of the top hem open so that you can run a drawstring through the top at the neck.
Set your machine for a long basting stitch and stitch across the fabric in rows that are 1/4" apart. Do not secure the ends yet. After all the basting is complete, tie the ends of the threads together along one side to keep them from pulling out.
Gently gather the fabric along the untied thread ends until it is about 1/3 its original length (For Lan, this was 2 1/2 inches).
Press the pleated fabric under a damp press cloth, trying to press the pleats in one direction. Let the fabric dry completely.
Pull out all the basting threads.
Run a drawstring (I used 1/8 " silk ribbon) through the neck on both pieces, using a tapestry needle or similar. If you plan to put beads on the ends of the ribbon, you can put fray check on the ends and roll the ribbon ends into points. This will make it easier to put the ribbon through the beads.
Close the sides of the dress by whipping the edges together. You may sew a bead every quarter inch to replicate Fortuny. After the sides are sewn, sew beads around the armhole edges, 1/4" apart. Thread beads on drawstring ends, if desired, and knot drawstring ends. Put dress on doll and tie at shoulders.
That's probably way more information than anyone wants, but it's here if you do.