Newbie doll customizing etc. questions

[animeangel09189]

I've never tried custmizing but I do know a little about obitsu's
they are suppose to be easy to take apart thats how they are built you can pop the arms and legs out easily as well as the hands http://junkyspot.com/obindex.html see here they are going to squeak its that new doll sound when I got my 27cm boy he squeaked in some areas now he still squeaks in the hips but the rest of him is squeakless

I'm not sure by what you mean by the shoulder joint is stiff how stiff can you still move it? again I chalk this up to "new doll" and once you play with her a bit her arms will be more manageable I advice against using oil since it could eaither eat at the plastic or make her arms/shoulders too lose and fall out easier when you don't want them too or not pose well enough the reason they are so "stiff" is so she can pose well here is a guide on obitsus http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation ... feature=iv

[Lamia of the Dark]

Don't use nail polish remover. You want 91% rubbing alcohol and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

I myself prefer to use only acrylic paint for faceups, but that's because I am one of the few doll people who is anti-MSC. (MSC is a spray sealant, which you've probably heard about if you'vebeen looking at faceup tutorials...)

As for the stiff joints, pull the arms out, then put them back on a few times. They'll loosen up if you keep messing with them.

[MitisFeles]

Face-up: As a starter I used only acrylic paint, now I still use it but with a bit of watercolors pencil and chalk pastels. Watercolors pencils makes easier to draw eyebrows, but if you use them, they need to be fixed with a matte clear finish (like the already mentioned Mister Super Clear, someone use Testors Dullcote and similar) or they'll go away and stain all it's possible to stain. If you use only acrylic paint, the matte finish is not vital, but is better have it, at least to protect the color.

Non-acetone-nail polish remover: I never used that, I must confess I've always used acetone and/or rubbing alcohol ^__^''' Acetone doesn't ruin the soft vinyl of the head, but you have to quickly rinse it with water after removing the paint, and be careful to not make it touch the hard plastic parts because it can easily melt them if not quickly washed away! Rubbing alcohol is a better choice, even if it works slowly...

Stiff joints: As animeangel already said, don't use greasy product on dolls, they stain and that's even worse they eat the plastic! The shoulder joint is stiff even in my Obitsus, but's just a matter of playing with it.

[DollyKim]

Water color pencils, acrylic paint, and chalk pastels are all safe to use on dolls. If you're skilled with acrylic paint then feel free to use it to make eyebrows and lashes, it's not always what supplies you have but what you do with them.

Make some practice eyebrows on paper, if you feel you need a doll use a thrift shop Barbie, she's made of similar stuff.

[Yanagi-sen]

Thank you so much for the hints everyone!

Question: Where can I buy the rubbing alcohol or Mr. Clean Magic Eraser? What is a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser? Google search gives me a cleaning product, which doesn't give me the impression it's suited for a doll o.o

If I use rubbing alcohol or Mr. Clean, do I need to wash the head with water afterwards?

A good sized grocery store or place like Walmart should have both the rubbing alcohol (in the first aid section) and the Magic Erasure (in cleaning supplies). The Magic Erasure is a cleaning sponge, you can use it dry between layers of chalk pastel/water color pencil to take off mistakes as you do a face up, and after it is finished and sealed you can use it (again dry) to remove small stains and stuff as they inevitably appear. Using it with the rubbing alcohol (as high percentage as you can find) will remove sealers and face ups (although not deep staining).

Yes, you should wash the head with water and a little soap wouldn't hurt after the alcohol/magic erasure. It's also handy to have WHITE paper towels handy, ones with print could bleed and stain the doll.

I prefer ground chalk pastels (applied with a soft brush) for shading and then water color pencils for fine lines and details. For sealer I use MSC. The only way to learn is to practice and do a few face ups. Don't feel bad if the first couple don't turn out exactly as you hope, it takes some practice to figure out what works for you.

[Alopecia No Hime]

Depending on the head just a Mr. Clean Eraser could work but depends on your medium. I still need to buy brushes and acrylic paint to have a full face up arsenal for now I only have water color pencils.

[Alopecia No Hime]

I don't even use a sealant prior. But I'd say a sealent makes it easier to remove the face up if you decide you don't like it between layers you can get rid of it.

[OkamiKodomo]

If you don't use a sealant, not only do pastels not stick as easy, but it's faaaaar more likely for the dolls to stain.

[Jobee]

For obitsus, I totally encourage you use acrylics. I know not everyone does it, but to me it's easier and I love how they look. To see some examples, check out my blog, and I also made a tutorial here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4912

Oh, and on Obitsus, you don't need a screwdriver for the arms. Just pull them out. If you pull it out and put it back in a few times, that could help with the tightness.

[JanetT]

The real reason to use a sealant (like Mr. Super Clear, aka MSC) before you paint is to provide a "ground" -- something besides the smooth vinyl for the paint and/or pastel, etc. to latch on to. It also helps prevent staining, and makes it easier to remove mistakes. And spraying it afterwards helps protect your final face-up from smudging. (This is especially important if you used pastels or watercolor pencil...). Note: MSC smells AWFUL and is very toxic. Spray it outside or in a well-ventilated area. (I also protect my clothing by making a temporary 'smock' of garbage bags when I do spraying).

Do wash the head with warm water and a bit of soap (dishwashing soap even) -- to help remove residue oils from the factory -- before you start. Little things like that do make a difference.

Do get the smallest brushes you can find, and the best you can afford. (Junkyspot sells some that are very fine). Good brushes are worth paying for, they keep their shape and allow you much better control for fine lines, etc. Watercolor pencils do work, though for really sharp, dark lines, a brush and paint gives you a better effect.

I keep a pile of Q-tips beside me when I paint -- a damp Qtip can remove a mistake very easily IF you catch it right away.

Be patient. It takes time and experimentation. (I've done some face-ups three or four times before I got a result I liked).
Look at as many doll photos as you can find for ideas. Practice on cheap barbies to get a feel for the size and how the brush (or whatever you're using) works on such a small object. (I've never done an eyehole head, so I can't offer much more specific advice on those...).

Good luck!